THE PRIVATE SINGLES TOUR
[From Bong 41, September 1999. Words: Harvey Edgcombe.]
Summary: Now this is what I call Devotion. A British fan's diary as he follows Depeche Mode through all 32 dates of the European leg of the Singles tour in Autumn 1998. Not only an outstanding achievement but a tribute to the community of fans in several countries who assisted him at the drop of a hat.
When I started planning this trip back in May 1998, to attend all the concerts was an impossible task. Not being part of the crew made it a very expensive experience, and phoning up individual venues to obtain tickets was difficult when the person knew no English. But with the help of DM fans on the Internet, most of the concerts were covered and the ambition to do all 32 concerts became a possibility. Note that this does not include the American leg – this proved to be just too expensive to do them all! My friend Shaun Salter who travelled along with me (sometimes) did most of the concerts as well, but had to miss a week after the UK concerts due to work commitments. Most of the concerts have been reviewed in detail by local people; the intention of my diary is just to give people a feeling of what it is like to follow DM around Europe.
Pre-Tour
Since the tour was announced in May 1998, I have been frantically on the phone or Internet getting information on where to obtain tickets for all the gigs. Also I obtained an International Rail timetable to ensure that it would be possible to travel and get to all of the concerts. About three months was spent obtaining tickets for most of the gigs, and planning the trains around Europe. The decision to do Estonia, Latvia and Russia was taken at the beginning of August, so a frantic three weeks to organise visa for Russia, flights, trains even though we did not have tickets!
1st September 98 – London to Tallinn, Estonia
Flew out from London to Tallinn, Estonia, via Vienna. A missed flight connection at Vienna meant that we had to fly via Vilnius, Latvia [sic] and then on to Tallinn, Estonia from there. Of course on arrival at Tallinn, the baggage went missing! This turned up at the hotel later that night. Met some Estonia DM Fan Club members at the airport who had secured my tickets for Tartu and Riga.
2nd September 98 – Tartu, Estonia
The Estonian Fan Club gave us a lift by car from Tallinn to Tartu. A quick dash to the airport to see DM arrive by plane. There was quite a reception there for them, and we drove back in convoy to the venue. Not the sort of thing we can do in England! The venue was an open-air arena, and being the first night the anticipation was high. A good crowd of people were gathering around the entrance for the 6 o’clock doors open. A long wait for Purity was greeted enthusiastically from the crowd but this was nothing compared to when DM came on stage just after 9pm. Opening with “A Question Of Time”, the crowd went absolutely wild, it was difficult to stay on one’s feet, and after about four songs I had moved three-foot from my original position just from the movement of the crowd! Being the first concert there were a few technical hitches, Dave looked a bit nervous for the first four songs but soon settled into the groove. Martin’s mike could have been turned up a bit, as he was very distant on “Home”. In all a good first concert, the crowd went home very happy, and the weather held – just as well for an open-air concert. After the concert we all got in the car and drove to Riga, Latvia overnight along with several other fans. Getting lost in Latvia was fun, as there were no road signs!
3rd September 98 – Riga, Latvia
After some sleep, had a quick look around Riga, a small pleasant city. On the way back to the hotel, bumped into Janet and Jordan. Then we went to the Tennis Hall at Jurmala, on the outskirts of Riga. When the taxi driver did not know where the venue was, we got a bit worried, but he eventually found it okay. After Tartu the venue was a bit disappointing, very small. Around 5000 people packed into the tennis hall, and boy did it get hot. A spirited performance by DM, the acoustics not very good, but the Latvian crowd really went wild and it was great to hear them singing the choruses with full gusto. Afterwards went to the after party in the centre of Riga and ended up staying there till 5am before heading back to the hotel for some much needed sleep.
4th September 98 – Riga / Moscow
A day off sightseeing in Riga, then overnight by train from Riga to Moscow. This is the only border control in the world that I have passed through where the border guard, in plain English said “good luck” as he handed back my passport!
5th September 98 – Moscow, Russia
Arrival at the Riga station in Moscow. As not many foreigners come in via this station, there was no money exchange, no tourist centre, nothing! After scouting the area found a department store which had a money exchange, a Metro station which at least had a map, albeit in Russian! From here I would be able to navigate anywhere. After finding our hotel it was off to the venue to try and obtain a ticket, but not speaking a word of Russian, this proved to be very difficult. Eventually obtained tickets. Later met up with Ilja from Estonia again, and he put us in touch with two other English people who had come to see DM in Moscow – two others? They were Lee North and Andrew Winter who had also come over from the UK to see DM. Venue was huge, a massive crowd and the concert was a blinder. About half way through the concert the top of the M on the DM light display fell off, making the stage look very unique! The best part of the concert was on “Somebody”, the whole arena was lit up with candles, the most I have ever witnessed. It is a moment I will never forget. Afterwards we went to a Russian bar with Estonian / Russian UK fans for some beer, pool and dancing. A good night was had by all.
6th September 98 – Moscow, Russia
Day off sightseeing, then overnight train to St. Petersburg, along with half of the other Russian DM fans! With several trains going overnight from Moscow to St. Petersburg, it was by chance that we were all on the same train, so we all met up in one compartment and organised beer drinking through the early hours of the morning. That’s what happens when four Brits meet up in a foreign country!
7th September 98 – St. Petersburg, Russia
After yet another sleepless night it was time to get up and get to the venue, situated quite a way out from St. Petersburg. Looking at the venue it was similar in style to the one in Moscow – déjà vu. After the fiasco to get in, (no queues, just a mass of people in a crush), the performance by DM was the most polished performance yet, ironing out most of the technical hitches expected to occur early on in the tour. Once again on “Somebody” the place lit up, making the arena look more like a church than a concert venue – brilliant. Afterwards we tried to get into the hotel where DM were staying, but alas we were unsuccessful. So we went to a bar around the corner and said farewell to our Russian friends who have been very good hosts the last three days. Without them we would have struggled to get around in Russia. It shows that all around the world, Dm fans help each other out.
8th September 98 – St. Petersburg, Russia.
Day off sightseeing.